Bosnia & Herzegovina, the first few days

We crossed the border from Serbia and headed straight to get a sim card and some money from Visegrad.

Visegrad

The main entrance of Andrićgrad is quite grand with ornate arches and intricatate stone work reminiscent of Ottoman and Byzantine architecture. The Sokolović brothers monument pays homage to Mehmed Paša Sokolović and his siblings. The monument is a symbol of their contributions to the Ottoman Empire and legacy in Visegrad.

This was the only photo I got from Visegrad, the main entrance of Andrićgrad and Sokolović brothers monument.

Sutjeska National Park and Monument

Our next destination was Sutjeska National Park, established in 1962, it is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s oldest and largest national parks spanning an area of over 17,500 hectares. It’s famous for Perućica, one of the last remaining primeval forests in Europe, and the stunning Skakavac Waterfall. The park’s rugged terrain includes deep canyons, glacial lakes, with Maglić, the highest point in Bosnia and Herzegovina, offering breathtaking views.

Apart from its natural wonders, Sutjeska National Park is also a site of historical significance.

It was the location of the Battle of Sutjeska in 1943, one of the most pivotal clashes during the WWII Yugoslav Front. The Monument to the Battle of Sutjeska, designed by Miodrag Živković and erected in the 1970s in the Valley of Heroes, Tjentište, commemorates this fierce battle and the lives that were lost. More than 7,500 were killed!

Battle of Sutjeska Monument

The monument is very impressive 19 metres in height, you can see how big it actually is looking at me standing by it! To reach it you climb up some concrete stairs, if you go up further you will reach the auditorium where you can see me sitting in the photo above. The semi circular parapets which show the names of the brigades and platoons which fought on the Sutjeska.

Kravica Waterfalls

We left Sutjeska the following morning and headed to Kravica Waterfalls, sometimes know as Kravice Waterfalls. I’d seen lots of photos of these waterfalls on line and knew that you could swim there. It looked like an amazing place. I couldn’t wait to go there.

The waterfalls are about 40km south of Mostar and 10km south of Ljubuški. It’s height is about 25 metres and it’s nestled on the Trebižat River. The waterfalls have sliced out a natural amphitheatre spanning nearly 120 metres. The waterfall was formed as a result of tectonic movement causing damage to the limestone plateau on which The Trebizat River flows.

It costs approx €10 or £8.50 to enter the park and waterfalls.

The falls are under protection as a natural rarity since 1954!

My best advice especially if you are going in the summer is go early, around 7am-8am. Sadly we made a big mistake and went at about 2pm, it was way too crowded and it did spoil the experience.

Once you have entered you have to climb down to get to the waterfalls. There seems to be no limit to the number of people that are allowed admission. It was ridiculously crowded going down and even worse at the bottom where there is a beach, a cafe and lots of sun loungers. It looked like many people had just spent the whole day there.

The waterfalls were spectacular but the crowds really made it quite unpleasant. So sad, please go early and don’t make the mistake we did.

I did get to swim and the water was so clear and there were fish too, but it was so hard to find a clear(ish) spot to go in as there were just so many people. It was also very hot and there was no shade for Dee which together with the crowds made him quite unhappy, this also meant I didn’t get that many photos or videos whilst swimming. I would really like to go back one day early in the morning.

If you are in a van there is a campsite inside where you can stay, not sure of the cost as we didn’t do it but I think it would be worth it to get there early.

Kravica Waterfalls

As soon as I’d swum we were climbing back up just to get away from the crowds. Our next stop was Blagaj.

Blagaj

Blagaj is a historic village located in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Nestled at the foot of a dramatic cliff, Blagaj is most famous for its unique Dervish monastery, known as Tekija, which dates back to the 16th century. The Tekija is built into the side of a mountain beside the turquoise waters of the Buna River. The location is stunning and creates a great ambiance.

Blagaj Fortress

The village is also home to the historic Blagaj Fortress, also known as Stjepan-grad. The medieval fortress is located near the village of Blagaj and dates back to the 15th century we actually drove past it on the way into Blagaj, we didn’t actually stop or go in though.

Blagaj Fortress

The Blagaj Fortress played a crucial role in the defense of the area during various conflicts and invasions throughout it’s history.

It was initially constructed by the medieval Bosnian nobleman, Herceg Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, hence its alternative name, Stjepan-grad.

The fortress consists of sturdy stone walls and towers, offering stunning views of the surrounding area. Despite its partial ruinous state, the Blagaj Fortress remains an impressive structure, attracting visitors with its historical significance and architectural charm.

It is possible to explore the fortress ruins.

The Blagaj Fortress is not only a cultural landmark but also a symbol of resilience and endurance, witnessing centuries of change and upheaval in the Herzegovina region.

Tekija

Blagaj Tekija is a Dervish monastery situated at the base of a cliff next to the source of the river Buna

The Tekija also known as Tekke was founded during the height of the Ottoman Empire and is a significant spiritual centre for the Sufi Muslim community.

When it was time to go inside the Tekija I had to be completely covered up. The lady at the entrance wrapped me up in scarves.

Inside it is a museum and features a main prayer room. There are also artefacts throughout the monastery that reflect the Sufi commitment to traditions and history.

Opening times are 8.30am-20.30pm every day

Blagaj’s natural wonders extend beyond its architectural marvels, with the Buna River emerging from an underground karst spring, one of the largest in Europe. This natural phenomenon adds to the village’s allure, attracting nature enthusiasts and photographers from around the world.

If you are in the area it is definitely worth visiting.

We stayed at a park up in Blagaj which was just a car park but very well situated. In the morning after a quick walk around we decided it was time to go . Our next destination was Mostar which is where our next post will start.

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